man geht in die /etc/default/grub (das ist der config default von GRUB).
Dort gibt es eine Option mit dem Namen GRUB_TIMEOUT_STYLE.
Es kann sein, dass diese option auf "hidden" steht. Einfach auf "timeout" stellen.
Dann mit folgendem Befehlt die Config neuschreiben:
sudo update-grub
und neustarten.
Hi guys,
i ran into a issue with my new ipad.
on gmail, when i swiped left, i could not delete the mail, but only archive it.
This is a issue, that can be changed in the settings.
Here is a small howto:
Go to Settings>Mail>Accounts>select the account you wish to configure. Then on the next page, tap on Account, then on the next page Advanced.
On that page, you should see "Move discarded mails into" and the two selections are Deleted Mailbox and Archive Mailbox.
choose deleted and the checkmark will appear there and then you should see the Trash rather than Archive.
Go back one level and finish. then you`re all set.
cheers
So i got this old bluetooth keyboard for my old HP Touchpad.
It had a HP OS called WebOS and was quite good. Unfortunately HP canceled the WebOS Dev. and all Hardware with it. So it was abandoned in 2015.
Now i still have the bluetooth keyboard from HP that i wanna connect to my Win10.
The problem is that windows does not say, what needs to be done to do so.
So when you add the keyboard as a new bluetooth device windows asks for a PIN like 0000 or something.
The issue is, the keyboard generates a unique PIN, that windows displays sometimes, sometimes not.
So there are 2 possibilites:
1. When windows presents a indiviual pin, just type this pin on the HP touchpad keyboard and press return afterward. You are then connected.
2. When windows does not present a pin, but asks to enter a pin, enter any pin like 0000 in the field in windows and press connect. Now comes the trick, that windows does not explain: just enter this pin you just entered in windows, also in the HP keyboard and press again return. You are connected.
I hope this helps. I can use the bluetooth keyboard now again. Saved some electronics from going to disposal.
regards
Frank
Hi guys,
here is my next repair project. We bought a Sous Vide from Aldi Nord for around 50 bucks. These gadgets are awesome, when you wanna make meat really smooth and tasty, only down is, that it takes hours before it is finalized.
So our Sous Vide suddenly did not heat any more and i did not wanna throw it away. So I wanted to try to repair it. Saying this there was a big issue, how to get this thing open. On YouTube no one had any video, how to open it up, just these stupid unboxing videos no one wanna see. But these kids seem not to be able to do more than unboxing... 
So here is what i found out:
Good news is you do not need to break anything by force, you can easily remove the top black cover with e.g. a thin wire pulling under the cover and loosening it up. It is just glued to the plastic top cover.
Then you can remove the screws and take off the cover.
Now you need to loose some more screws, that hold the power line in place to be able to pull out the electronic board of the Sous Vide.
Here we go.
Now the issue is the relays, you can see in the picture. The switching circuit still worked, but it did no longer close the circuit on the power side.
The solution was easy, just to replace it. I used a replacement relay with 12V DC switch power and 16A, 250V AC on the power side. It is about 5 bucks.
I again used my desoldering gun, which did again a great job getting the solder off the circuit.
After resoldering everything back i did some testing and all worked fine again.
So i hope this helps a bit. If anybody of you have some more repair hints, i would be glad to post them or post a link to your site.
Cheers
Frank
Hey guys,
i bought myself a new Android TV Box H96 Pro Plus which is really awesome in speed and flexibility.
This box comes with Android 6, but can easily be upgraded to Android 7.1.1, which i use now.
Problem with this box is the temperature. It gets way to hot.
So i thought about buying me a airvent to just have a constant flow of cool air to the mainboard.
This is what i bought on amazon an it is great. Did cost about 10 bucks, is very silent (just 18 dBA) and is powered by usb via the box itself.
Here is a picture of how it looks. I just put it under the box and temperature is as low as 40 degree celsius.
cheers
Do you know the problem, when you get mad, because of an electronic device squeaking very high.
Had the same now with my old fritzbox 7270 V2. I do not want to throw it away, as i was hoping, that the root cause was an elko, as they are most of the time the issue in such devices.
So I opened it up, which is quite easy, cause there are only a view clamps, you can easily open with a screwdriver. So thanks AVM for making this device repairable.
Here you see the picture of the board and also the defective elko. It is a 100 µF, 25 Volts. Had only the same with about 50 Volts, but that's ok.
So how did I find it? Very simple, I googled a bit and found a forum "ip-phone-forum", a user panda3 had put in the solution into the thread "7270 pfeift".
So thank you Panda3 for finding and sharing it.
Now how to get the defective bastard out of the board. I used a so called De-Soldering-gun. It is a combination of a soldering gun and a desoldering pipe. Just google about it. It is about 20 bucks.
After getting the solder off, I could easily remove the elko and put the new one in. A short test was positive, so now i have again my peace of mind.
Hope this helps, please leave a comment.
cheers.
Hey guys,
it´s me again, having another defective gadget, i do not want to throw away.
So, this is a LED Christmas star, which is battery driven and just has an RGB LED, that changes colors slowly, though giving a very warm christmas feeling.
Problem is, this thing is made so cheap, the cable, connecting the LED to the controller has no strain relief, so the cable just broke.
Now i had to get the glued LED out of the polymer star without destroying it. This I did with a little drill, going into the middle of the LED and getting slowly to bigger sizes. In the end, i used a 10 mm drill and now the replacement LED fits in just nicely.
Do not make the hole too big, as the new LED needs to be glued in again. I just used a heat glue pistol. That worked fine for me.
I took this RGB LED as a replacement, but the important thing is that they have a common anode, not a common cathode.
https://www.highlight-led.de/10-leds-5mm-wasserklar-rgb-4-polig-steuerbar-set.html
Next thing was soldering the cables directly to the LED, but do not forget to think about the strain relief before.
Then I made sure the cable has a strain relief by a combination of 4 small shrink tubings covering each single pin of the LED, then folding the cable twice over the already heated small shrink tube performing an 8 and fixing it in place with a bigger shrink tube over all 4 pin connections at once.
Now works like a charm again and giving us warm Christmas feelings. Another gadget saved from waste. 
cheers
Frank